When people think of Japanese textiles, they often imagine bright kimonos or colorful obi.
On the remote Amami Oshima Islands in southern Japan there is a very different cloth — Oshima Tsumugi textile.
It is a finely woven silk fabric that shows the skill and patience of the island’s artisans.
This article introduces the history, techniques and cultural importance of Oshima Tsumugi and suggests ways to experience it when you visit the islands.
What Is Oshima Tsumugi?
Oshima Tsumugi is a type of silk pongee that is made by dyeing threads before they are woven. The resulting textile is soft, matte and has a subtle shine. Amami’s version of this fabric is famous around the world. Traditional patterns are created by tying bundles of silk threads in a planned pattern, dyeing them and then weaving them by hand.
Each 13‑meter roll can contain over a million tiny dots that form the pattern. The fabric is so highly regarded that people often compare it to Persian carpets and Gobelin tapestries. Oshima Tsumugi is known for its durability and beautiful black sheen, it is light, supple and resists wrinkles.
Many families keep garments made from it for generations. They say the fabric lasts at least three generations.
A Long History on the Islands
The craft of tsumugi is over 1,300 years old. Textiles using similar techniques were probably introduced from India, but Amami’s artisans developed their own style. By the late Edo period (1603‑1867) Oshima Tsumugi had become a specialty of the islands. Islanders had to supply the fabric to the Satsuma domain as a type of tax. After 1879, this heavy burden ended, and many women continued to weave at home to support their families. The importance of the cloth grew and today it is considered one of the great textiles of Japan.
The Craft — Dyeing and Weaving
Creating Oshima Tsumugi takes a long time and many steps. Patterns are first drawn on paper to guide how the threads will be dyed. Bundles of silk threads are tied according to this pattern and dyed repeatedly. Techigi‑zome uses dye from the sharinbai (Yeddo hawthorn) plant, artisans dye the threads 20 to 80 times with this plant dye. They then dye the threads once with local mud. This process is called dorozome. The tannin in the plant dye reacts with the iron in the mud to produce the deep black color that makes Oshima Tsumugi famous.
After dyeing, the bindings are removed and the threads are carefully prepared for weaving. Weavers use a hand‑operated loom to warp the dyed threads onto the loom. They align the patterned threads precisely before weaving. Because the warp and weft threads are woven in a way that matches the pattern, weavers can make only about 30 centimeters per day. One roll of fabric takes forty to fifty days to weave or about two months according to some workshops.
Each finished roll is inspected and given labels to certify that it meets quality standards. A special label featuring a globe distinguishes authentic Amami Oshima Tsumugi from fabrics made elsewhere. Today this silk is used not only for kimonos but also for wallets, phone cases, clothing and small souvenirs.
Experiencing Oshima Tsumugi in Amami Oshima
Seeing pictures of the fabric is not enough, to truly appreciate Oshima Tsumugi you should see how it is made and feel the fabric in your hands. Many local craftspeople still work at home. Several places welcome visitors who want to learn about Oshima Tsumugi.
In our private tour, you can experience Oshima Tsumugi with full English support. Try the unique mud-dyeing process, where silk threads are carefully dyed in the island’s iron-rich mud. Watch and practice weaving on the traditional loom, guided by skilled artisans. You can also enjoy a kimono dressing session, learning how to wear Oshima Tsumugi in the authentic way. With an English-speaking guide by your side, every step is easy to understand and enjoy.
Why You Should Visit
Oshima Tsumugi is not just fabric, it tells the story of the Amami Islands. It is a living craft that connects the present with more than a thousand years of history. Watching artisans tie, dye and weave each thread makes you appreciate the patience and precision behind every piece.
If you love textiles, Japanese culture or simply want to experience something unique, include an Oshima Tsumugi workshop or tour when you visit Amami Oshima. Enjoy the warm climate, meet the craftsmen and bring home a piece of history. By supporting this craft you help ensure that the skills and stories of Oshima Tsumugi continue into the future.
